Best New Restaurant of 2009

DISH

 There are almost as many formulas for how to develop a successful restaurant as there are successful restaurants.  Dallas is far from the easiest place to make any of those work, and 2009 was not exactly the best of years for starting a new business with expectations of success.  The formula behind DISH is a simple, but sound one: "Put together a team of people who are brilliant in their areas of expertise, and let them work together to create an amazing result."

You can't really argue with the chosen team members for DISH.  The restaurateur who can be credited with the creation is Tim McEneny who is pretty well known in Dallas, especially for obar and Dragonfly.

Partnering with Tim as "concept chef" is Doug Brown.  Doug's name may not be known in quite as many circles, but it should be, and it will be.  He is best known for his catering company, Beyond the Box, which now also operates counter service (conveniently located just down from DISH) for pick-up and take-home catering.  Dallas foodies with a good memory will also remember Doug from Amuse, a great restaurant previously located on South Lamar.  Unfortunately, Doug was just a little ahead of the times with that area, where the City of Dallas is now investing heavily in an overall facelift, and people will wish Amuse was still around when it is all done.

Personally, I have yet to run into Tim McEneny or Doug Brown at the restaurant.  Although I am sure they are often around, this restaurant formula will not work without some solid leadership on the location management team to implement the visions of the concept creators on a daily basis.  This means you better have a top notch General Manager and an amazing Executive Chef.  DISH has managed well with each.  In the role of General Manager, we have Shawn Horne.  There's still some whispering in the rumor mill as to how Shawn came to be at DISH.  His history with well known Dallas locales, such as Ferre, certainly seems to make him a good catch for McEneny and Brown.  The question really is why he left Wolfgang Puck's new restaurant, 560, atop Reunion Tower, so shortly after opening.  As far as the Executive Chef goes, you'll find Brian Sommers supervising the kitchen.  He's best known for opening restaurants, such as Kent Rathbun's Jasper's and Rick's Chophouse. (Note: Since this article was written we have been notified that Brian Sommers is no longer with DISH.  We are actually very excited to hear that Doug Brown has now taken over as Executive Chef and intends to remain in that position.)

As it should be, the food is definitely the star at DISH.  To start, they offer a variety of flatbreads including a beef version with Harris Ranch fajita tenderloin, chipotle cheddar, salsa, peppers, onions, and avocado or a vegetarian-friendly mushroom version topped with Denison shiitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, Texas goat cheese, and arugula.  However, the bread base itself is so incredibly delicious, that I recommend their "Simple" flatbread with the perfect combination of sea salt, herbs, reggiano cheese, and extra-virgin olive oil for only four dollars.  Other starters include their take on some home-style Texas favorites, such as Buttermilk-Herb Fried Natural Wings served with apple cider slaw and house ranch or Beef Sliders with apple wood bacon and Iowa white cheddar.  Of the six entree salads, I would feature the Arugula Salad with pulled salmon, citrus vinaigrette, tomatoes, almonds, cranberries, and feta cheese, although they are probably best known for their Cobb Martini Salad, which includes shredded romaine, bleu cheese, grapes, chicken, apple smoked bacon, and cucumbers shaken in an oversized martini shaker before being served at your table.

Their "Main Plates" continue the focus on up-classed simple comfort foods as well as local farms and purveyors.  Two of their top offerings are Fran's Texas Free Range Roasted Chicken with french beans, thyme, lemon, honey, and olives and Smothered Porch Chop with bourbon marinated apple wood bacon, pearl onions, wild arugula, and sweet apple.  As a native Texas raised in the cattle country of West Texas, it's really hard for me to recommend beef from a restaurant that takes pride in local products, yet purchases their beef from California.  However, I have to swallow my pride and admit that it's really hard to beat beef from Harris Ranch, and their steak special on my first visit was prepared as masterfully as those from some of the country's top steakhouses.

Home-style desserts at DISH include a Smoked Pecan Brownie, Lemon Ice Box Pie, and seasonal fruit cobbler made with a cake-style top layer in place of the traditional cobbler crust.  Our Dessert & Sweets Editor, Rebecca, tells me that their Homemade Mini Cookies and Ice Cream is actually among her favorite desserts of the year, managing to be almost perfect in its simplicity.  The varieties of each change with the night, but all are homemade and delicious.  The only thing that would make it better would be to serve the cookies still warm.

In line with the "Year of the Brunch," DISH has a special mid-day offering on Saturdays and Sundays.  They have a special flatbread, served only at brunch, with apple smoked bacon, sliced potato, rosemary, chipotle cheddar, and poached egg.  Egg entrees include a Classic Benedict, Steak & Eggs with red eye gravy, and a Goat Cheese Omelet with roasted red peppers, portobello mushroom, and scallion hash.  Aside from some entrees from the dinner menu, such as the Arugula Salad and the Harris Ranch Burger with apple wood smoked bacon, Iowa white cheddar, and 27 sauce, there are two notable brunch offerings in the "Other Entrees" section.  The Brioche French Toast is served with banana, warm maple syrup, and smoked pecans.  Possibly their most popular entree at brunch time is their Fried Chicken & Waffles.  This southern classic includes a perfectly prepared herb fried chicken breast and buttermilk waffles with maple butter.  DISH has been promising a canine-friendly menu to be available on the patio, reminiscent of the brunch offerings for our four-legged friends at Amuse.  However, this has yet to become a reality.

DISH also features a trendy bar area with an impressive array of signature cocktails and an abbreviated bar menu after 11:00 PM.

DISH

4123 Cedar Springs Rd
Suite 110 in ILUME
Cross street Douglas
214.522.DISH (3474)

Open 7 days a week
Dinner from 5pm - 11pm
Bar Food Service from 11pm - 1am

Bar Hours are 4pm - 2am

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